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FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions and Answers
Here at HPI Racing UK there is a dedicated team of Customer Service Technicians at the end of a telephone, to take care of your warranty and technical needs, no matter how big or small.
If you require any assistance please contact the Customer Service Team by typing in your question below or contact us by calling the local rate telephone number: 0845 00 66 160 (Standard office hours are: 8:30 - 17:00 Monday - Friday)
In the first instance we would suggest watching the DVD included with your car again and restarting the setup procedure, just to make sure you have not missed anything. You can also find a tutorial video on HPI.TV
Once you have checked you are following the correct starting procedure then you should ensure that your car's engine is set to it's factory base settings. You should find these on the DVD or in the instruction manual provided with your car.
If this fails to resolve your issue then you can contact either your local model shop or the After Sales Care line (0845 00 66 160) for further help and advice.
There are one of two possible problems:
1) The glowplug may require replacement. You can find details of the glowplugs that HPI have available on the website.
2) Your engine may be set too rich - try returning the engine to it's base settings as shown in the instruction manual or on the tutorial DVD and beginning the tuning process again.
It sounds like your idle speed is set too low. Try turning the idle screw 1/2 turn clockwise and start the engine of your car with the wheels off the ground. You can use your instruction manual to help identify the idle screw if you are unsure where to find it.
Next, apply the brakes on your transmitter and start turning the idle screw slowly anti-clockwise until the engine stalls. Once you have reached this point, turn the idle screw 1/8 turn clockwise again.
When set correctly the car should sit at a standstill when the engine is idling. You may find that on a brand new car the idle has to be set slightly higher so that the car does not stall. This is acceptable provided the car is not moving quicker than walking pace. You should be able to reduce the idle speed after a few more tanks of fuel.
Keywords: BRAKES, BULLET, ENGINE, FIRESTORM, LIGHTNING, MT2, NITRO, NITRO 3, PULSE, SAVAGE, STALL, STOP, TROPHY
There are several methods of stopping your engine; the easiest is to use a rag pressed over the tip of your engine's exhaust. Be very careful when doing this, the exhaust on your car is likely to be hot, especially if it is made of metal!
You can also pinch the fuel line running from the fuel tank to the engine until the engine stalls. It is recommended that you do this with the car's wheels off the floor; as the fuel runs out the engine revs will increase before the engine stalls.
If you have an HPI Savage you can also use the optional Engine Stop System with your car - this is compatible with all of the Savage series except the XL.
Your car is supplied with a comprehensive instruction manual and in some cases a DVD too. We recommend that you follow the guidelines given to help ensure that your engine has the best possible mix of life and performance.
If you need a copy of the instuctions for your car then you can download them from the HPI Europe website!
You can also find helpful 'Getting Started' videos in the Learning Lab on HPI.TV if you require further assistance.
A slipper clutch is a device that fits on or near the spur gear, and helps absorb "drivetrain shock" that occurs when a car lands from a jump. A slipper clutch also helps aid traction in slippery conditions, since it acts as a mechanical way to limit the power that reaches the drivetrain.
The runtime for a tank of fuel can vary depending on the conditions that the car is being used in, but it will typically be between 10 and 15 minutes per tank on most nitro cars. Don't forget that you can refuel with the engine still running so you can enjoy the car for longer periods without stopping!
When your car is new and the engine is still tight and set very rich it's normal for the car to use more fuel, but once the break in process is complete then this will improve.
Nitro engine fuel can absorb moisture and of course moisture is destructive to the inside of a nitro engine. Coating the internal engine parts in after run oil keeps out moisture and keeps the engine’s components in the best possible condition.
To apply after run oil first remove the glow plug. All that is needed is a few drops of after run oil into the glow plug hole in the top of the engine and a few drops into the air intake of the carburettor. Turn the engine over a few times by hand and replace the glow plug. If the engine is to be left for some time then it is worth making sure that the exhaust and air intake holes are blocked to keep out moisture and dirt.
We are a trade only distributor, so unfortunately you will not be able to purchase parts directly from us.
You can use the shop finder facility here to find a local stockist who will be able to supply you with the parts that you need. In the event that the shop does not have the part in stock then they should be able to order it for you - If the parts you need are in stock at HPI then they should be available to them within 2-3 days!
The type of fuel that you require will depend on the engine that is fitted into your car - we would suggest either 16% Nitro or 20% Nitro fuels for small block (.12-.18) engines and 20% Nitro or 25% Nitro fuels for big block (.21-.36) engines.
We always run our cars on the fuels that we distribute and find them to run reliably, have easy tuning characteristics and provide a long engine life so we wouldn't hesitate to recommend that you also use them in your car. Your local model shop will also be happy to advise on other fuels that they have available that suit your requirements.
For the petrol powered cars that we offer you should use unleaded fuel mixed with a good quality two stroke oil at a 25:1 ratio.
Yes you can - use the table below to identify which parts you need:
Don't forget you'll also need a charger and a battery pack to complete the conversion!
Keywords: BULLET, ELECTRIC START, FIRESTORM, MT2, NITRO 3, PULL, PULLSTART, PULSE, ROTO, ROTOSTART, SAVAGE, START
The One Way Bearing is normally very reliable and will only fail in the event that it's over-loaded. This is normally caused by attempting to start the engine whilst it's flooded.
If the Rotostart jams or the Pullstart becomes difficult to pull then you can remove the glowplug and clear the engine as shown on the DVD included with HPI kits. The engine should then be easier to turn over.
If you follow the above steps then your One Way Bearing will thank you!
Stripping a spur gear (a flat spot on the plastic gear that turns the drive train of the car) is not caused by the spur gear or pinion gear. A stripped spur gear is caused by the pinion gear not having the correct mesh with the spur gear and/or a possible loose motor or engine screws.
A failsafe is a small electronic box that plugs into the throttle channel of your receiver, then your throttle/brake servo plugs into the fail safe. They are usually mounted into the radio box of a car.
A correctly set fail safe will return the throttle/brake servo on your car to a position that you have pre-set in the event of the transmitter or receiver batteries being flat, or the car being affected by interference. We advise that this position should be approximately 50% brakes for a nitro car, and neutral for an electric car. This will allow the car to come to a controlled stop.
Many of the newer cars are supplied with a 2.4GHz radio system which have a failsafe built into the receiver that removes the need to fit an external failsafe. Full instructions for setting these up should be in the instruction manual for your model.
Keywords: 2.4, AWAY, BATTERIES, CONTROL, FAIL, FAILSAFE, FLAT, GHZ, GIG, LOST, OUT, RUN, SAFE, SIGNAL
All of our product lines undergo stringent quality checks during both the design and the manufacturing process. In the unlikely event that you do have a part that is either faulty or missing then please contact the After Sales Care team on 0845 00 66 160 or by sending a support request using this FAQ section - a member of the ASC team will be happy to discuss with you the best way of resolving your problem.
If you have broken a part of your car in use then you can purchase any spares you need from your local model shop. You can use the exploded diagram in the back of your instruction manual to identify the part numbers for any items you may need.
The amount of time it takes to charge a battery pack varies. Each battery has a "milliampere capacity", this is the number printed on the package (1400, 1500, 1700, 2000, 2400, 3000, etc.). The higher the number, the more power the battery holds and the longer it takes to charge the battery. Also, battery chargers can charge at different "amp rates", or power output, so a battery that can charge at 6 amps will charge a particular battery faster than a charger that is charging up that same battery at 4 amps.
Some of the more powerful electric models use a Lithium Polymer or LiPo battery - these must be charged using a compatible charger such as the HPI Reactor 500, and we'd always advise charging the batteries in line with their manufacturers recommendations. It's also advisable to use a LiPo safe charging bag when charging LiPo batteries.
If you wanted to calculate how long your battery will take to charge you would need to divide the Capacity of the battery by the Charge Current. For example an 1800mAh battery charged on a charger with a 300mA output (typical RTR charger) will take 1800/300 = 6 Hours. Another example if you are using a fast charger like the Reactor 500 you can up the Charge Current to 3.6A which turns that into 1800/3600 = 0.5 hours. Again please follow the Batteries Manufacturers recommendations for charging your battery!
Keywords: AMPS, BATTERY, CHARGE, CHARGER, CHARGING, CURRENT, FLUX, LIPO, LITHIUM, NIMH, POLYMER, RECHARGING
You can find many tips on maintenance and cleaning on our tutorial section on www.hpieurope.com which answers questions for electric, petrol and nitro car owners. Also, see our Links page for RC magazine websites around the world. All of the major magazines have up-to-date web sites that have articles on maintenance, setups and more.
You can also refer to your instruction manual and DVD for more specific manintanence instructions relating to your car.
Petrol powered RC cars run on normal petrol mixed with 2-stroke oil.
Nitro models run on special Model Nitro fuel and cannot be run on normal petrol. Model Nitro fuel is widely available in model shops.
You can find the spare parts listing for your car by finding the car on this website and then clicking on the 'Standard Parts' option. Alternatively you can enter the item part number in the quick search box at the top of the page.
Once you have found the part you are looking for then you should see the RRP next to it. Alternatively you can contact your local model shop who will be happy to let you know the price of the parts you need.
A glow plug igniter is a battery-powered spring-loaded tube that fits over the glow plug of an engine to heat up the glow plug until it is red-hot (usually 2-3 seconds is all it takes). With fuel in the carburettor, the pull starter is pulled or the starter box engages the flywheel. If the engine is tuned properly, it will start right up. Every R/C nitro engine needs a glow plug igniter to start.
It's likely that your slipper clutch is loose. The slipper clutch is a torque limiting device that is intended to reduce stress on the drivetrain of your car.
You can find a tutorial on www.hpieurope.com that details how your slipper clutch should be set. If your car appears to be different to the cars shown in the tutorial then you can refer to your instruction manual for details of setting up the slipper clutch.
If your slipper clutch is set correctly and the car is still not moving then it's likely that there is a problem with your clutch. Please refer to the instuction manual for your car for full details on how to service and maintain your clutch.
Unfortunately we don't offer a repair service ourselves, although your local model shop may be able to help you.
In many cases the repair that you need to carry out will be quite simple, and it will be quicker, cheaper and more rewarding for you to carry out the work yourself. We're always happy to offer help or advice if you get stuck too, although all cars and most parts are supplied with comprehensive instructions.
The easy answer to this one is practice! We'd suggest you start off with small jumps until you are confident you can control the car in flight and land it cleanly. Once you've mastered this then you can progress to larger jumps. Don't over-estimate what you can manage though, remember that the drivers you see on our videos all have many years of experience driving these cars. Trying to copy them straight away may result in damage to your car.
Once you have your car in the air you can use the throttle to control it; appying more throttle will make the rear wheels of the car drop, while applying the brake will cause the front wheels to drop. It's better to try and land the car on all four wheels at the same time where possible, to minimise the risk of damage to the car.